Portugal: Town & Country 

Portugal is well-known for a number of things; it's famous for the delicious fortified wine port, as a destination for beach holidays, and as a centre of viniculture (along with the all important cork to keep the wine fresh in bottles). Despite being one of the oldest countries in Europe, and once one of the richest, it's less well-known for its medieval villages and vibrant cities.

 

During the Age of Discovery, Portuguese navigators, such as Vasco de Gama, were instrumental in finding new trade routes and even new lands. Portugal established one of the longest lived maritime and commercial empires. Its overseas colonies included countries like Angola and Mozambique in Africa and Brazil in South America. This brought enormous wealth which in turn produced spectacular architecture, such as impressive Catholic cathedrals and the numerous palaces at Sintra, just outside Lisbon.

 

Today the architectural heritage veers between grand and shabby, with cities such as Porto falling on relatively hard times since Napoleon's occupation in the C19th and the subsequent loss of Brazil, one of its richest colonies. However, the intersection between magnificent civic buildings and the gentle decay of inner city neighbourhoods provides a rich environment for making interesting images. These places are also great spaces for street photography, with figures ranging from buskers to elegantly attired Lisboetas to Catholic priests in night black garb.

This tour will be based in four principle locations. We will be concentrating on buildings and portraiture with some landscape. Most of our explorations will be on foot so please pack comfortable footwear.

 

We start in Oporto. I feel that this city provides some of the greatest concentration of photographic opportunities, from buskers to derelict buildings to murals to river views and so much more. Known to English speakers as Porto, this harbour city is famed as the main export base for the eponymous fortified wine port. We will be staying in the Vila Nova de Gaia, on the southern bank of the Douro River. This is the heart of the port industry where the wine has traditionally been brought down river from the vineyards to be bottled and aged. There are many old warehouses, named after famous brands such as Sandeman, and fine views across the Douro to the heart of the city. To the east, the huge double decked iron arch of the Luís I Bridge rises into the sky, our gateway into the city. Porto's vibe might best be described as shabby chic, with old elegantly dilapidated neighbourhoods standing cheek by jowl with swish shops and grand buildings. We will have two full days to explore this endlessly fascinating place.

 

We will then head inland up the Douro river valley to stay in a guesthouse overlooking the river, surrounded by vineyards. One of the finest viewpoints of the valley is just a couple of hundred meters away. With any luck we may have early morning mist in the valley below. We will spend a day visiting the charming villages and ancient towns such as Lamego.

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​​On the way to our third base we will pass through the high mountain landscape of the Serra da Estrela National Park. This rolling granitic plateau is the highest mountain range in Portugal (high enough for there to be ski fields) and commands extensive views over the surrounding landscapes. In the small river valleys below there are beautiful water worn granite outcrops and (at the right time of day) beguiling golden reflections. 

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Near our base are some of the most prominent of the Twelve Historic Villages of Portugal, considered to be historically, architecturally and culturally important. They are also all beautiful! We will spend time visiting each in turn. Monsanto is considered the "most Portuguese village in Portugal. The houses are built in and around huge granite outcrops and boulders. Sortelha sits within its Medieval fortress walls atop a remote hill. Castelo Rodrigo is another beautifully preserved village with hardly a sign of the modern era (there are even stocks). It is perched upon a high plateau with sweeping views towards Spain.

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Heading south and east we will skirt the southern edge of the Serra da Estrela and spend a night just outside the fascinating village of Piódão. The village is tucked into a sheltered valley and built predominantly of glittery schist. Tiny alleyways snake uphill, each corner turned revealing some beautiful detail. It could be a roof covered in huge slabs of schist, worn stone steps or a weathered door.​

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We then move on to the tiny medieval, walled village of Óbidos, where we will spend two nights. Climbing an open stair onto the parapet, one could circumnavigate the village in less than an hour... but that would be too fast. This is a walk to savour, time to saunter rather than sprint. From this high vantage there are views across the rooftops, vignettes of brightly painted walls and windows, glimpses into hidden courtyards and panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. 

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All this and pastel de nata, the finest custard tarts in the world! What more could you want?

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